Mock Cable Socks on 2 Circular Needles A Free Pattern By Cindy Greenslade
Materials: • 16” circular needle in size 2.75mm or 3mm or 3.25mm • 24” circular needle in size 2.75mm or 3mm or 3.25mm • Fingering weight yarn apx 325 yards(if this is your 1st sock on 2 circs try using 2 coloured yarns.I recommend Patons Kroy or a similar type yarn) • Tapestry needle • Stitch Markers *point protectors (use the point protectors on the needles that are not in use)
Guage: 9stitches and 9 rows= 1 inch on #3 circular needles in stst
Abbreviations: CO: cast on K: knit K2tog: knit 2 together Cst: cable stitch P: purl Rep: repeat rnd(s): round(s) rs: right side sl: slip stitch Ssk=slip, slip, knit= slip the next 2 st knitwise, one at a time onto working needle, then knit them together with other needle st: stitch sts: stitches pm: place marker ws: wrong side wyib: with yarn in back wyif: with yarn in front *Note cable stitch: knit 2 together, do not remove needle. Insert Right hand needle through 1st stitch on Left hand needle knitwise and knit it. Then slip both stitches off the needle.
This pattern uses the same amount of stitches for 3 sizes, ladies small, medium and, large. It is the size of the needle that determines the size of the sock. With the smaller needle corresponding to the smaller sock and so on. The pattern is a basic pattern and is a learning pattern for the technique of knitting 2 socks on 2 circular needles. The heel stitches are the stitches on the 16” needle and the instep stitches are the stitches on the 24” needle
Casting On: Using "long tail cast on" cast on 60 stitches onto the 24 inch needle Slip 30sts purlwise on to the 16 inch needle and ensuring that the stitches face in towards each other. Slide the sts on both needles to the opposite end. Take the tail and thread through a tapestry needle, bring the yarn through 1st stitch on the opposite needle and then through the 1st stitch on the other needle. The round is now joined and will be “A”. Now repeat and call this “B”. The picture below shows all the stitches casted on and separated.
Knitting the Cuff: Begin the cuff by knitting from the 16” needle of A (heel stitches) in a K2, P2 rib ending with K2 . When you have completed these 30sts move you must flip your needle so that the unknit stitches from sock B will be on the left hand side and the knit stitches of sock A are on the right hand side with yarn over needles. Knit the 30sts of sock B. Now stitch the 30sts on the 24” needle of sock B (the instep stitches) beginning with P2 and ending with P2. Then rib those on needle A. 1 round has been completed. Continue in rib for 1 to 2 inches, width of cuff is your choice. *Tip: It is beneficial to place a stitch marker after the first knit stitch. I like to use 2 different colour markers and on my pattern I write which colour corresponds to which sock. For example the blue stitch marker is sock A and the white stitch marker is sock B When your desired cuff width is achieved begin knitting leg on 16” needle sock A .
Knitting the Leg: The pattern for the sock is as follows: Rnds 1,2&3: Needle A heel K30 Needle B heel K30 Needle A instep K10, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K10 Needle B instep K10, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K10 (counts as 1 round) Rnd 4: Needle A heel K30 Needle B heel K30 Needle A instep K10, P2, Cst, P2, Cst, P2, K10 Needle B instep K10, P2, Cst, P2, Cst, P2, K10 Repeat rounds 1 through 4 until leg is desired length. *note the heel stitches will always be knit
Pattern Chart for instep stitches only(24 inch needles) k k k k k k k k k p p k k p p k k p p k k k k k k k k k k row1 k k k k k k k k k p p \ \ p p \ \ p p k k k k k k k k k k row4 k k k k k k k k k p p k k p p k k p p k k k k k k k k k k row3 k k k k k k k k k p p k k p p k k p p k k k k k k k k k k row2 k k k k k k k k k p p k k p p k k p p k k k k k k k k k k row1
Chart Abbreviations: • k=knit • p=purl • \\= cable stitch * because the chart is for the instep stitches only read it from right to left *cable stitch: knit 2 together, do not remove needle. Insert Right hand needle through 1st stitch on Left hand needle knitwise and knit it. Then slip both stitches off the needle. End with right side facing and next round starting on Needle A heel. If you have to knit a ½ round or a full round to get to start position that is okay.
Heel Flap: Row 1 (rs): on A sl1st as if to purl, * K1, sl1wyib* rep until last st, K1 now move to B and repeat Row 2 (ws): on B sl1st purlwise,P to last st, K1 now move to A and repeat Work these 2 rows for a total of 22 rows ending with row 2. The heel flap should measure 2 ¼ “, 2 ½ “, 2 ½ “ *TIP: the heel flap will be worked back and forth on rows of the 2 heel needles (on the 16” needle only). You will work 1 set of stitches on A and then on B. Do not work instep stitches.
Heel Turn: Start with sock A and make the heel turn for each sock separately. That is 1 sock at a time. Sock A: Row 1: Knit 17 sts then turn Ssk, K1, turn Row 2: Slip1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn Row 3: Slip1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk to close the gap, K1, turn Row 4: Slip1, purl to one stitch before gap, P2tog to close the gap, P1, turn Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked leaving 18 stitches on needle. Continuing with the same needle pick up 14sts along the left side of the needle and 1st in corner for a total of 15 stitches and the yarn hanging in between sock A and B Repeat the above for sock B
*Ssk=slip, slip, knit= slip the next 2 st knitwise, one at a time onto working needle, then knit them together with other needle.Here is a link that includes a video KnittingHelp.com
Pick up Stitches for Gusset: Knit across the 30 instep stitches on the 24” needle for sock B and sock A maintain pattern. Pick up 1 stitch in corner and 14 stitches along side of sock A for a total of 15 stitches. Knit the heel and other gusset stitches on sock A. Now pick up 1 corner stitch on sock B and 14 stitches along side of sock B, knit remaining heel and gusset stitches. The gusset stitches have now all been picked up.
Gusset Decreases: Knit across all instep stitches continuing in established instep pattern. Row 1: (on 16” needle Sock A) Knit to last 3sts, K2tog, K1 Repeat on Sock B Row 2: (on 24” needle sock B) knit across Repeat on sock A Rnd 1: (on 16” needle sock A) K1, ssk, knit to end of sock A. Repeat for sock B Rnd 2: (on 24” needle sock B) knit Repeat on sock A Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 30 stitches per sock on the 16” needle and on the 24” needle for a total of 60 stitches per sock.
The Sole: Work the stitches on the 16” needle (now called the “Sole” stitches) in knit and follow the pattern for the instep stitches on the 24” needle until the sock is at the base of the big toe when tried on. Or the sock measures from the back of the heel for small 6 ½ “, for medium 7”, for large 7 ½ “. This should be about 1 ½ “ less than the length of the foot of the wearer.
The Toe: Knit 1 more round and move the stitch marker from center of sock A and B to beginning of sole stitches. That is the stitches on the 16” needle. Rnd1: sole and instep: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches of sock A, K2tog, K1. Repeat for sock B Rnd2: knit across both needles for each sock.
Repeat these 2 rounds until there are 8 stitches left per sock on each needle. That is a total of 16 stitches per sock. Cut yarn leaving a 10 to 12 inch tail. Graft the toes using the Kitchener stitch.
Copyright C. Greenslade 2008
A PDF file of this pattern is available on the sidebar or leave a request for it with your e-mail in the comment section and I will send it to you.